Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
The more I see this model, it's beginning to grow on me. I still think an orange dial version would be ideal..
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
I agree.
I mean, Clive was known for wearing an orange Doxa sub, his most famous character wore an orange Doxa sub, so to commemorate his memory, we’ll make a beige Doxa sub.
Adding the faux-tina to the lume on the hands and lume plots is another odd design choice for a watch brand with a reputation built on bold color choices and high contrast for visibility.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
I wonder if the aged beat up looks will make the beat-up vintage ones shoot up double in price good for me. They sure don't age like there remake are made to look like by the looks of mine case wise.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Okay, okay. They'll probably make a Pro version. In the meantime this looks pretty cool and the family was on board.Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 5:13 amI agree.
I mean, Clive was known for wearing an orange Doxa sub, his most famous character wore an orange Doxa sub, so to commemorate his memory, we’ll make a beige Doxa sub.
Adding the faux-tina to the lume on the hands and lume plots is another odd design choice for a watch brand with a reputation built on bold color choices and high contrast for visibility.
"We'd better synchronize our watches."
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Another pic from a guy on WUS.
Damn it looks so good!
Damn it looks so good!
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
The lume plots look more aligned on that example.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Yes - and the dial looks lighter, which I like because it gives more contrast with the handset.Ryeguy wrote:The lume plots look more aligned on that example.
Want.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
More pics from a different WUS user.
Alignment looks good here.
Alignment looks good here.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
I just thought of something....
That stonewash finish isn't a case hardening, correct? It is just a cosmetic finish, like bead blasted, etc.
If so, wouldn't new scratches and wear marks show up as bright / shiny gashes on the finish? I'm also guessing that fixing a ding might be just as challenging on this finish as it would on a bead blasted finish.
That stonewash finish isn't a case hardening, correct? It is just a cosmetic finish, like bead blasted, etc.
If so, wouldn't new scratches and wear marks show up as bright / shiny gashes on the finish? I'm also guessing that fixing a ding might be just as challenging on this finish as it would on a bead blasted finish.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
^ good point. I’ll bet that’s exactly what will happen. Ugh.
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Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
It is dlc coating that I believed has been ran through a tumbler. That is my guess. At least I hope so. Otherwise a fresh scratch would look horrible in this finish if it s bare metal.Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 1:50 pmI just thought of something....
That stonewash finish isn't a case hardening, correct? It is just a cosmetic finish, like bead blasted, etc.
If so, wouldn't new scratches and wear marks show up as bright / shiny gashes on the finish? I'm also guessing that fixing a ding might be just as challenging on this finish as it would on a bead blasted finish.
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Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Cool concept, cool & cliché in the faux department. It’s sightly appealing in the shelf collectible sense. I’d rather have an original vintage battle scarred piece.
Some great pics guys, real photo shop wizardry.
Some great pics guys, real photo shop wizardry.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
I just googled how to achieve this stone wash effect on a knife blade, and found this:toxicavenger wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:55 pmIt is dlc coating that I believed has been ran through a tumbler. That is my guess. At least I hope so. Otherwise a fresh scratch would look horrible in this finish if it s bare metal.Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 1:50 pmI just thought of something....
That stonewash finish isn't a case hardening, correct? It is just a cosmetic finish, like bead blasted, etc.
If so, wouldn't new scratches and wear marks show up as bright / shiny gashes on the finish? I'm also guessing that fixing a ding might be just as challenging on this finish as it would on a bead blasted finish.
“ The process of stonewashing:
Disassemble the knife and cover the places you do not want to be stonewashed, like the pivot, in nail polish.
Place the blade in the plastic jar along with the stones and spray some WD-40 or soap and water on top of the rocks.
Close up the plastic jar and wrap it in the towel. Use rubber bands to secure the towel around the jar so you don’t damage your dryer.
Put the towel-covered jar in the dryer in a heatless dry setting. This might be called tumble dry or air fluff. Leave it in for 10 to 20 minutes–depending on how dark you want the finish to be.
Remove the blade and clean it to remove residue. You can use nail polish remover to remove the nail polish. Assemble the knife and sharpen the blade to see the final outcome.”
This was from a blog called “eknives.com”
Another “how to” blog instructed you to acid wash the blade first to darken it, then tumble it as above.
I guess case hardening is not required.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
I have the biggest gripe with the dial itself, but honestly, after seeing videos and real pictures, its not as bad as my initial reaction made me think it was.
Again, I'd rather have a "plain" doxa, spend the next years filling my adventure log book until it looks similar, but that's just me.
Again, I'd rather have a "plain" doxa, spend the next years filling my adventure log book until it looks similar, but that's just me.
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Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Cool process, didn’t realize how simple it is. I could see practicing with junkers. I wonder how the effects vary with steel types?Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 4:20 pmI just googled how to achieve this stone wash effect on a knife blade, and found this:toxicavenger wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:55 pmIt is dlc coating that I believed has been ran through a tumbler. That is my guess. At least I hope so. Otherwise a fresh scratch would look horrible in this finish if it s bare metal.Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 1:50 pmI just thought of something....
That stonewash finish isn't a case hardening, correct? It is just a cosmetic finish, like bead blasted, etc.
If so, wouldn't new scratches and wear marks show up as bright / shiny gashes on the finish? I'm also guessing that fixing a ding might be just as challenging on this finish as it would on a bead blasted finish.
“ The process of stonewashing:
Disassemble the knife and cover the places you do not want to be stonewashed, like the pivot, in nail polish.
Place the blade in the plastic jar along with the stones and spray some WD-40 or soap and water on top of the rocks.
Close up the plastic jar and wrap it in the towel. Use rubber bands to secure the towel around the jar so you don’t damage your dryer.
Put the towel-covered jar in the dryer in a heatless dry setting. This might be called tumble dry or air fluff. Leave it in for 10 to 20 minutes–depending on how dark you want the finish to be.
Remove the blade and clean it to remove residue. You can use nail polish remover to remove the nail polish. Assemble the knife and sharpen the blade to see the final outcome.”
This was from a blog called “eknives.com”
Another “how to” blog instructed you to acid wash the blade first to darken it, then tumble it as above.
I guess case hardening is not required.
Watched a video yrs ago on acid washing/staining ti scales, but I didn’t have the nerve to practice on mine.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
If someone could do that on a Maranez or Seestern that would be nice.Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 4:20 pmI just googled how to achieve this stone wash effect on a knife blade, and found this:toxicavenger wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:55 pmIt is dlc coating that I believed has been ran through a tumbler. That is my guess. At least I hope so. Otherwise a fresh scratch would look horrible in this finish if it s bare metal.Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 1:50 pmI just thought of something....
That stonewash finish isn't a case hardening, correct? It is just a cosmetic finish, like bead blasted, etc.
If so, wouldn't new scratches and wear marks show up as bright / shiny gashes on the finish? I'm also guessing that fixing a ding might be just as challenging on this finish as it would on a bead blasted finish.
“ The process of stonewashing:
Disassemble the knife and cover the places you do not want to be stonewashed, like the pivot, in nail polish.
Place the blade in the plastic jar along with the stones and spray some WD-40 or soap and water on top of the rocks.
Close up the plastic jar and wrap it in the towel. Use rubber bands to secure the towel around the jar so you don’t damage your dryer.
Put the towel-covered jar in the dryer in a heatless dry setting. This might be called tumble dry or air fluff. Leave it in for 10 to 20 minutes–depending on how dark you want the finish to be.
Remove the blade and clean it to remove residue. You can use nail polish remover to remove the nail polish. Assemble the knife and sharpen the blade to see the final outcome.”
This was from a blog called “eknives.com”
Another “how to” blog instructed you to acid wash the blade first to darken it, then tumble it as above.
I guess case hardening is not required.
Watch collector since 1989
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Oh I’m sure the tactical frog version is already in production
- toxicavenger
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Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
If the case is plain stainless steel like they are saying then I believe it would age nicely.AranaWhite wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 5:32 pmCool process, didn’t realize how simple it is. I could see practicing with junkers. I wonder how the effects vary with steel types?Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 4:20 pmI just googled how to achieve this stone wash effect on a knife blade, and found this:toxicavenger wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:55 pmIt is dlc coating that I believed has been ran through a tumbler. That is my guess. At least I hope so. Otherwise a fresh scratch would look horrible in this finish if it s bare metal.Ryeguy wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 1:50 pmI just thought of something....
That stonewash finish isn't a case hardening, correct? It is just a cosmetic finish, like bead blasted, etc.
If so, wouldn't new scratches and wear marks show up as bright / shiny gashes on the finish? I'm also guessing that fixing a ding might be just as challenging on this finish as it would on a bead blasted finish.
“ The process of stonewashing:
Disassemble the knife and cover the places you do not want to be stonewashed, like the pivot, in nail polish.
Place the blade in the plastic jar along with the stones and spray some WD-40 or soap and water on top of the rocks.
Close up the plastic jar and wrap it in the towel. Use rubber bands to secure the towel around the jar so you don’t damage your dryer.
Put the towel-covered jar in the dryer in a heatless dry setting. This might be called tumble dry or air fluff. Leave it in for 10 to 20 minutes–depending on how dark you want the finish to be.
Remove the blade and clean it to remove residue. You can use nail polish remover to remove the nail polish. Assemble the knife and sharpen the blade to see the final outcome.”
This was from a blog called “eknives.com”
Another “how to” blog instructed you to acid wash the blade first to darken it, then tumble it as above.
I guess case hardening is not required.
Watched a video yrs ago on acid washing/staining ti scales, but I didn’t have the nerve to practice on mine.
Website: http://smallwhitestubbies.com/
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Just thinking about how a DIY’er could do this with a Maranez (or any of the cheap and cheerful knockoffs), I think you’d need a crystal press and a way to remove the bezel.
In my experience, many low cost brands have bezels that are very challenging to remove, so that might be a bit of a problem.
You’d also need to think of some way to protect the inside of the case and crystal seating area during the tumbling process. Maybe create some kind of temporary blank or plug to seal the area off.
I think the process is very doable, however, with a bit of creativity. A black dial would look pretty cool with this “weathered” finish.
In my experience, many low cost brands have bezels that are very challenging to remove, so that might be a bit of a problem.
You’d also need to think of some way to protect the inside of the case and crystal seating area during the tumbling process. Maybe create some kind of temporary blank or plug to seal the area off.
I think the process is very doable, however, with a bit of creativity. A black dial would look pretty cool with this “weathered” finish.
Re: Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
Be sure to pick up a pair of these to go with the watch
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