What Bond should have worn, the definitive 1968 remake, the Seiko SPB077

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colonel
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2021 12:17 am
Name: Harold Miller

What Bond should have worn, the definitive 1968 remake, the Seiko SPB077

Post by colonel » Fri Jan 21, 2022 7:03 am

It’s a big thing to say that a particular watch is one of the best diving/sport watches you have ever had. It’s also suspicious, I mean the latest shiny shiny is always the best when its new right !!
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BTW my diving watches include/have included Omega, Rolex, Muhle Glashutte, Armand Nicolett, Rado, Norqain, Breitling, Tag Heuer, Oris, Tudor (the BB 925 is one of my keepers – highly recommended) and of course other Seikos.

It’s not a technical thing. I am the first to acknowledge that the qc and movements of the under £1000 Swiss watches, especially ETA group, are generally better then Seiko. Although there are some caveats: 1. If you get a Seiko which is all together and a good movement, it’s a beautiful watch and an amazing feeling. Maybe that’s why us Seiko addicts keep trying – for the perfect watch! 2. Although I acknowledge the technology and accuracy in the new ETA movements, such as the A31, I am not too happy with the laser regulation build into the balance spring module. Although this means they are more accurate out of the factory, they can’t be regulated by a jeweller, and if sent back to ETA for regulation, they will require a whole new balance spring module, which the cost of, out of warranty, effectively makes these watches disposable. The Seiko movements, old ETA movements (like the 2824) and higher end movements are all serviceable by any competent watch engineer. Sorry – a bit of a side track !!!
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I have always admired Seiko watches for being priced very proportionately to the cost. It starts at a few £100 and kind of peters out at £740, where the Sumo stands with sapphire crystal and a 6R. Then there was this massive gap to £5000 or more for Grand Seiko.

What Seiko seems to want to do now, and overdue IMHO, is to plug some of this gap, especially £1000-£2000, although there is some representation above that with the new Speedtimer chronograph and a splash of 8R mechanisms.
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The SPB077, or 1968 re-issue was the vanguard of this expansion. Arriving in 2018, Seiko set it in the UK at an enigmatic £999 price. Almost like they didn’t want to look like they were going over £1000 and testing the price water somewhat. The subsequent explosion of models in this group of 1968 and 1965 re-imagining are mostly now between £1000 and £1250.

The SPB077 in fact was envisioned as a 1968 remake with a nod to the Marine Master 300, i.e. how much of that watch could Seiko squeeze in for the price. Technically the SPB077, in the proportional nature of Seiko’s pricing, has significant technical advantages over cheaper diving Seikos, in particular:
  • Much improved bezel action
    Stainless steel polished bezel insert with dia hard coating
    Better case finishing and polished bits
    Dia hard coating over the whole case and bracelet (whilst some people wax lyrical about this coating, I find it still allows through some surface marks, although it does make the watch more resistant, but not immune, from scratches)
    Refined applied pips and hands
    Refined dial finishing, including on the rehaut
    Solid link bracelet, well made, with chamfering and edge polishing
    Milled buckle
    6R movement. This movement in this model is the 6R15 with a 50 hour reserve. Later 1968 and 1965 series have the 6R35 with an improved spring to get to 70 hours.
The other thing seems to be quality control. I am sure when I say this someone will shout out about a defective 1968 or 1965 series, but I tried on three SPB077s before I made a decision to buy, and all had perfectly aligned pips, rehaut and bezel. Together with perfect bezel action (actually the best I have ever used for me, stiff but precise and dull “click”).
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Talking about quality, my 6R15 is zero seconds fast. Yeah, I know. It beats my previous best, my Tudor GMT. Now of course this is just luck, I have heard of 6R15s around the +5 seconds, but I have had a bad relationship with Seiko movements recently. For some reason all my 4R35 and 4R36 movements have been consistently good for their price, up to +10 seconds. I did have one just over 15 seconds, but still within Seiko’s spec. I have been very unlucky with 6R35s, one even coming over +90s, which I gave straight back to the shop. So why is this 6R15 so good ? was the more more conservative spring better ? or, as I suspect, is Seiko actually regulating its over £1000 1968 and 1965 series better now ? Makes sense, looking at the quality of construction.

Inevitably the technical stuff has to be tossed out of the window when holding this in your hand. The pictures on the web do it no justice. This is an extremely handsome and well made piece. Quite hefty for its compact shape as well, but not overly so. It does this with no sunburst dials, over polishing or unusual features, just with such a well co-ordinated and “together” iconic design and quality of construction.
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The other thing that sets this apart is the comfort. I have a small 6.7” wrist, and this is a 43.5mm watch with a 50mm lug-to-lug. But it looks and wears like a 41mm (and of course like a Longines 39mm 😊 ). Its just so comfortable. Perhaps it’s the curved under design, the 13.5mm thickness, the vertical bracelet drop, whatever, it feels comfortable, as well as a million dollars.

Which brings me to the design, the key thing. This asymmetrical, semi-tonneau design, combined with the thin bezel, sharp hands, samurai hour hand and large round pips is so Seiko. In this overcrowded me too diver watch ocean, its great that such a clear and smart design can be so iconic.

Looking at the main event, the face, we have a thin polished stainless steel bezel insert, covered by dia coating, and surrounded by polished stainless steel, with a fine, slightly slanted slated grip pattern. It looks like ceramic, but isn’t. I would have preferred a ceramic insert, but in terms of looks the bezel is stunning. The font and minute graduations are silvered and not oversized, adding a touch of class to the watch.
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The dial itself is not deep black, more like a charcoal black. In some angles it can look dark grey, in others, inky black. The hands are excellent. They are charcoal DLC coated next to the spindal, making them appear to float over the dial. The pips of course are typical Seiko and the lume is legendary, rightly so. For anyone who has not had a Seiko before, get ready for a treat!
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The body is matt on top, then a polished thick chamfering at one angle, followed by a matt diagonal to the back plate. Not sure why no one has really copied Seiko here, but this case design is unique and looks beautiful. Probably not the best adjective for a diving watch, but there you go ….

Crown is at 3.5 o’clock and is large and grippy. Second gripe, it is not signed. I know it has been said many times before but Seiko seem to have set the crown signing price at £2,000. Well that makes no sense!
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The bracelet is a piece of total quality construction and again sets this piece apart from its cheaper Seiko colleagues. Solid and comfortable, non-hair snagging, triple links are presented. Its all matt except for the top and bottom edge of the middle link. Very classy (think I have used that adjective before!). The buckle is milled, great, but the clasp is pressed, with the familiar Seiko rattle. I would have loved a milled clasp!! To be fair, Breitling also loves pressed clasps for its SuperOcean, but come on guys!. Comfort is again great with four micro-adjusts, thank you!, and a diver extension for those that do. Not for covid desk divers though 😉

I guess in summary you guys can guess when I think about this watch. In some ways the iconic tough and classy gentlemen traveller, swim and daily watch, or weekender if you wear that Patek to work (does anyone go to work any more ?). This is probably what the real James Bond wears, well alongside a G-Shock anyway 😊
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Selym
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Re: What Bond should have worn, the definitive 1968 remake, the Seiko SPB077

Post by Selym » Fri Jan 21, 2022 1:43 pm

Nice watch! I think it would look even better with polished, plated hands vs. painted.

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