Sourcing a Sub

Nomadz · Post by **Nomadz** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:18 pm

matt.wu wrote:
dukerules wrote:I'd buy a 5513/1680 and a snowflake over one Red Sub, purely on the premium they demand. They are super cool though. Another option is to get a nice non-rail 1665, and save yourself a little money.
Me too.

Me three

goaliechris · Post by **goaliechris** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:39 pm

5513 - like the bubble. A lot.

For the 1680 non-Red, haven't researched that one much. Significantly less than its Red brother I'm assuming?

Will research 1665 non-rail.

Such a noob.

JBZ · Post by **JBZ** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:51 pm

1680 non-red will be significantly less than a red. 1665 is still pricey depending on condition (even non-rail), but should be less than a red sub in similar condition.

andrema · Post by **andrema** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:56 pm

I want a 1680 Red from 1970

foodle · Post by **foodle** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 3:33 pm

goaliechris wrote:Is it just me or have Red Sub prices gone insane the last couple of years (like beard length)? Looking at prices over the past years, they seemed to taken off. I was thinking they'd still be in the 9-11k range but it looks like decent ones lately are more in the 14k range? Could be wrong. If that's the case, I might be out of the market for 1680 Red and in the market for some red paint!

Only a few years ago, a good condition red 1680 was in the $10k range. So prices have shot up in the past couple of years. It's a pretty hard sell in the $14k range, as you could get a lot of other very nice watches for that money.

As for wearing it around, the 1680 is a lot less blingy than any of the modern subs, so it doesn't attract much attention. Throw it on a nato and barely anyone will notice it except other watch nerds. I wouldn't worry about robustness unless you're planning on doing something really vigorous with it.

Maybe look into the transitional Subs and SD (16800 or 16660)? Nice dials with no WG surround, but sapphire instead of plexi. Also a high beat movement and quickset date are nice to have.

All that being said, the 1680 red is still damn pretty:

andrema · Post by **andrema** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 4:17 pm

A 16660 would be nice

BBK357 · Post by **BBK357** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 6:31 pm

foodle wrote:
goaliechris wrote:Is it just me or have Red Sub prices gone insane the last couple of years (like beard length)? Looking at prices over the past years, they seemed to taken off. I was thinking they'd still be in the 9-11k range but it looks like decent ones lately are more in the 14k range? Could be wrong. If that's the case, I might be out of the market for 1680 Red and in the market for some red paint!
Only a few years ago, a good condition red 1680 was in the $10k range. So prices have shot up in the past couple of years. It's a pretty hard sell in the $14k range, as you could get a lot of other very nice watches for that money.

As for wearing it around, the 1680 is a lot less blingy than any of the modern subs, so it doesn't attract much attention. Throw it on a nato and barely anyone will notice it except other watch nerds. I wouldn't worry about robustness unless you're planning on doing something really vigorous with it.

Maybe look into the transitional Subs and SD (16800 or 16660)? Nice dials with no WG surround, but sapphire instead of plexi. Also a high beat movement and quickset date are nice to have.

I totally agree w this.

I wear my 16800 on NATO to work and nobody has ever paid any attention to it. Under he radar. My Tuna had gotten more attention.

As for a 1680 vs matte dial 16800- I would do 1680 for the plexi because of preference. But in reality the sapphire and click bezel of the 16800 appeals to more people.

foodle · Post by **foodle** » Fri Jan 29, 2016 9:26 pm

andrema wrote:A 16660 would be nice

blowfish89 · Post by **blowfish89** » Sat Jan 30, 2016 2:47 pm

1680 with bracelet for $5850 (I can also vouch for the seller, he is local to me).
Cheaper as service dial and refinished case (I think). Though it looks absolutely stellar with those chamfers.
http://chronocentric.com/forums/chronot ... d;id=47216

jbsf3 · Post by **jbsf3** » Sat Jan 30, 2016 5:42 pm

blowfish89 wrote:1680 with bracelet for $5850 (I can also vouch for the seller, he is local to me).
Cheaper as service dial and refinished case (I think). Though it looks absolutely stellar with those chamfers.
http://chronocentric.com/forums/chronot ... d;id=47216

Wow, great looking 1680, looks like a great option!

Slipkid · Post by **Slipkid** » Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:12 pm

While a great price for a 1680 these days, it has been over polished on the side opposite the crown. Eventually you have to decide on how much you like 1680s and how much you are willing to pay based on condition.

foodle · Post by **foodle** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 12:14 am

Slipkid wrote:While a great price for a 1680 these days, it has been over polished on the side opposite the crown. Eventually you have to decide on how much you like 1680s and how much you are willing to pay based on condition.

Really? I don't see it.

From the pictures, the lugs don't look too narrow, nor are the spring bars poking through the lug holes. A bit hard to tell from the pics, but the lug holes also don't look dished out (a typical sign of poor polishing). What am I missing?

BBK357 · Post by **BBK357** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 12:17 am

I think it looks good for the price

So many people asking way too much.
Just look at the 5513 prices. It's a joke.

Post by **River Rat** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 4:59 am

Good luck on your journey looking for a birth year Rolex do it now when you get older like I am there out of your price range. Imagine what a 1958 Rolex Sub would cost me and if I got one when young imagine how much profit would of been made if I sold it when I get to old to care about watches any more. And don't be afraid of vintage just do your home work buy from a reputable dealer or some times good deals on watch forums like Rolex forums were a fake won't last due to members with knowledge buy from member high post counts. Were any vintage Tudor Snowflakes made around your birth year there different that's the way I went when I wanted a vintage sub. Think I paid 2000 for mine on the MWR PX right after I retired had Rolex service it in SF still runs great they sure went up in price since. I been to Honolulu time one of the times I went to Hawaii the owner was cool showed me a few watches tried to go to hqmilton once when I lived in the bay area was looking for a bracelet for the snowflake got there and the shop was closed a long Bart ride home but heard good things about his shop if you go to his shop call first make sure some one will be there.

goaliechris · Post by **goaliechris** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:26 am

Thanks all and good points. Great condition 1680s and 5513s are incredibly expensive relative to just a few years ago. Rolex vintage market is hot, probably too hot for me. Thinking this may not be the right way to go for me. Plus, I'm kind of attached to my Sea Dweller it turns out. I still want a red sub but don't know it makes sense right now.

If I'm going to spend that kind of money, I might as well get one of the watches that I've always wanted, though neither are near the same. The new Big Pilot checks a lot of my boxes now.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454246691.735178.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454246707.507848.jpg

dukerules · Post by **dukerules** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:30 am

I think your reasoning is sound. Just don't expect prices on desirable vintage Rolex pieces to go anywhere but upwards. I made that mistake with Tudor snowflakes; should've bought mine years ago.

goaliechris · Post by **goaliechris** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:36 am

dukerules wrote:I think your reasoning is sound. Just don't expect prices on desirable vintage Rolex pieces to go anywhere but upwards. I made that mistake with Tudor snowflakes; should've bought mine years ago.

That is also true.

goaliechris · Post by **goaliechris** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:50 am

Thoughts on this option? Top bezel edges (teeth) look really polished down.

http://www.hqmilton.com/watches/1970-ro ... rsc-papers

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454248198.142577.jpg

foodle · Post by **foodle** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 10:04 am

^^^
No papers is a good way to save a few bucks on a red sub. However, for this one, the non-matching patina and spots on the date disc would give me pause. Better to spend a bit more on a good example than compromise on something not quite up to par.

BBK357 · Post by **BBK357** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:10 am

Rust colored spots on the date disk means it has been exposed to some sort of moisture

Post by **toxicavenger** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:14 am

goaliechris wrote:Thoughts on this option? Top bezel edges (teeth) look really polished down.

http://www.hqmilton.com/watches/1970-ro ... rsc-papers

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454248198.142577.jpg

^^^that looks like a hodge-podge of parts

goaliechris · Post by **goaliechris** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:47 am

I too was thinking water. And the different patina levels bother me.

blowfish89 · Post by **blowfish89** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:58 am

Even patina should be high on the list of desirable things.

marchone · Post by **marchone** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 12:00 pm

It has lots of mismatched character.

goaliechris wrote:Thoughts on this option? Top bezel edges (teeth) look really polished down.

http://www.hqmilton.com/watches/1970-ro ... rsc-papers

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454248198.142577.jpg

JonSnow · Post by **JonSnow** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 2:41 pm

I'm justifying my 114060 as a birth year for my kid[WINKING FACE]

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