Speedmaster 125 Chronometer
This is a photo study and review of the 1973 Omega Speedmaster ‘125’ Automatic Chronometer/Chronograph.
I won this Omega a few days ago on eBay. I was the only bidder. The seller shipped it on Presidents Day via UPS Overnight. I received it late Tuesday, February 22nd.
OVERVIEW
To celebrate its 125th anniversary, Omega developed a very special commemorative watch - - a watch that embodied the highest standards of craftsmanship in Omega watchmaking. This watch was the Speedmaster ‘125,’ limited to just 2,000 examples.
The Speedmaster ‘125’ was a tour-de-force of its day, becoming the very first automatic chronograph to be COSC-certified as a chronometer. Other firsts for the ‘125’ included:
• First automatic chronograph with calendar.
• First watch with a tempered mineral crystal (sapphire was not available in such a large size).
The Speedmaster ‘125’ was unique among Omega watches in that it was the first time Omega designed and produced a limited edition commemorative anniversary watch. Further, the ‘125’ is the only Omega to use a case, a bracelet, and a movement never used in any other Omega watch.
As of early 2011, the cost of a Speedmaster ‘125’ in excellent condition can range from $2,000 to $5,000.
CASE
The Speedmaster ‘125’ is honed from a huge steel billet, measuring 42mm (excluding crown) x 51.5mm. The entire watch weighs in at a hefty 182.9 grams. Although the dial is round (Ø=35mm), the case is tonneau-shaped, with rounded top and bottom segments. The steel case is very thick: the main body is approximately 10mm thick at the center of its length, and about 12mm thick at the lugs. The bezel and caseback bring the overall thickness to 15mm. The bezel is actually separate from the case itself, and can be removed along with the movement as one piece.
The caseback bears the embossed “Speedmaster” logo; there are no limited edition numbers showing on any ‘125’ casebacks.
In addition to the usual logos and information, the inside caseback on the ‘125’ is stamped with the case reference numbers of 3780801 and 1780002.
The watch was originally rated at 60 meters of water resistance, but should no longer be considered water resistant due to aging of the gaskets and seals.
BRACELET
The “bar” style bracelet is integrated with the case of the ‘125,’ which cannot be substituted with a strap. The bracelet is unique to the ‘125,’ and is 5.5mm thick at the lug and 3.8mm thick at the buckle. The bracelet is 26mm wide at the lugs and 15.5mm wide at the buckle.
The bracelet utilizes an Omega No. 11 stainless steel clasp, and bears the reference 1221/212.
The buckle is a single locking type, and is engraved and embossed with the Omega logo at its tip. The bracelet is quite long, appearing to handle up to an 8.5” wrist. Only the two smallest links are removable, each link measuring about 11/32” in length. In addition, the buckle has eight micro-adjustment holes, which measure a total of 13/16” in further adjustment. Four years following release of the Speedmaster ‘125,’ Omega began offering an alternative bracelet (“1225/212”) that looked the same as the original from the top, but distinctively different from the underside.
DIAL
The round dial on the ‘125’ is 35mm in diameter, excluding its polished steel housing.
Beneath the crystal, a white-on-black tachymetre surrounds the dial in an elevated position. The main surface of the dial is approximately 3mm below the tachymetre, and is a dark gray matte coloring. The dial features a raised steel Omega logo, name, and model name (“125”). The name “Speedmaster” is painted in white. At certain photographed angles, the raised steel components become almost invisible, or even appear black in color. The dial also is painted with the words “AUTOMATIC CHRONOMETER” and “T SWISS MADE T.” The dial includes a date window at the three o’clock position, and two sub-dials: one at six o’clock and one at nine o’clock. There are four central hands: hours, minutes, chrono seconds, and chrono minutes. The six o’clock sub-dial contains the chrono hours register, and the nine o’clock sub-dial includes both a small seconds hand and a non-adjustable 24-hour hand. The two chrono pushers on the right side of the case operate the chronograph functions in the normal manner. The crown offers three positions, including a quick-set date function at the middle detent. The Speedmaster ‘125’ offered three alternative perimeter registers (in addition to the tachymetre): telemetric, pulsimetric, and decimal.
MOVEMENT
The specially-designed and manufactured caliber 1041 movement introduced in the Speedmaster ‘125’ was the very first automatic chronograph to be COSC-certified as a chronometer.
The movement was derived from the Lemania 1341 and is an enhanced version of Omega’s mainstay 1040. The 1041 features 22 jewels, a heavy platinum-ringed rotor, and was “adjusted” at the factory for accuracy in five positions plus temperature variability. Differences from the caliber 1040 include the plate, rotor, and chronograph bridge. The caliber 1041 is Swiss made, measures 31mm x 8mm, operates at a frequency of 28,800 bps, utilizes Incabloc shock protection, and has a rated power reserve of 44 hours.
ON THE WRIST
The Speedmaster ‘125’ is a BIG watch, even by 2011 standards. However, on the wrist it only feels “big” in its height. The case is tall, at 15mm, and would be difficult to fit easily under the cuff of a dress shirt.
Since the long tonneau case carries so much mass it feels slightly top-heavy, especially considering the bracelet is only 16mm wide near the clasp. Other than that caveat, the ‘125’ feels quite natural and comfortable on the wrist. The bracelet design is great for not pinching or pulling wrist hair.
The bold white hour and minute hands make viewing the time easy, but could be easier if the other two central hands were just a tad narrower. I happen to be a big fan of red on a dial and would have appreciated if either the small seconds hand or the “Speedmaster” name were rendered in red (or even orange).
Operation of the chrono pushers and three-position crown is easy, smooth, and sure. Chrono hands snap back to zero as they should. Although the clasp and buckle are only single-locking, the mechanism has a safe and secure feel.
Lume is still bright, particularly on the white-lumed hour and minute hands.
Following a UPS shipment, the watch is running about +16s/d, not bad for a 38 year-old watch. I’ll keep checking over time and employ the fine adjustment screw to tweak the timing if necessary.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This review includes data presented by the dean of vintage Omegas, the late Chuck Maddox (below with astronauts Charlie Duke and Wally Shirra).
PHOTOS
That is very interesting Speedmaster, I have had my eyes on it for years. You also have other excellent vintage chronos (good taste Sir) how about some compare shots with Heuer etc? 
