Tudor North Flag 91210N

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rockmastermike
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Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by rockmastermike » Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:53 am

"I like to think of Tudor as Rolex's Tyler Durden – an outlet for all the impulses and urges the company has, but is just too darn responsible to carry out without fear of consequence"

John Mayer said this of Tudor in his write up on the Black Bay, but I think this is more applicable to the more daring North Flag. With the North Flag Tudor is stepping out on a substantively different Horological world stage than their previous releases.

While there are significant, and well documented, cultural shifts at Tudor that are represented in the North Flag, there are also a multitude of subtle design ques that have, thus far, been overlooked or ignored by the online community.

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A quick search of North Flag internet comments are, for the most part, opinions based off of Tudor's print and/or online ad campaign. "I speak not to disprove what they have spoke, but here I am to speak what I do know..." I stated in my Grand Seiko review that it is a watch that absolutely needs/deserves to be seen, held and worn to truly appreciate and the same holds true for the North Flag.

Let's do this:

The crown sits on a 40mm case and features a well done Shield and deep ridges for a secure grip and screws into the case without the spacer present in its Heritage siblings. The crown is also cone shaped....make no mistake this is a tool watch but right off the bat Tudor designs a subtle feature so that not everything is so "over the top."

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The bracelet is simply outstanding and uses a "H-style" link design with 3 adjustment holes in the clasp.
Another design feature that mostly goes unnoticed is that the top of the inside edges of the center links are polished.

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You don't really notice until the light hits it the right way but when it does, it is a very nice effect. Sometimes you see the polish effect, sometimes you don't. There is "fine watch" trying to break out of a tool watch

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Again, notice the "hidden" polished area on the case. It is as if Tudor is hiding a "fine watch" underneath a tool watch.

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One last thing on the bracelet - it is a common internet rumor that you can't use aftermarket straps - that is a lie. It attaches using smaller springbars so a strap maker need only get the correct measurements and you're good to go. As this myth is corrected, I would bet we start seeing more aftermarket straps for the North Flag.

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Tudor recognized the bezel is a scratch heavy area and addressed it by incorporating a scratch resistant black ceramic bezel. The bezel is not as menacing as many think due to it slightly sloped and not wide as one would imagine. When looking down at your wrist you barely notice its small halo type ring around the dial.

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The matte dial is shows off muted eggshell finish with tall applied markers and numbers with large channels filled with lume. Very legible in all conditions with great depth due to the height of the markers and numbers

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The new MT5621 In House movement - many have derided it's "simpleton" design and appearance. No, it's not decorated, that would go against it's tool watch nature. But, as we have seen above, Tudor does enough to keep us interested....if you know what to look for.

Silicon Hairspring - antimagnetic
full balance bridge with a free-sprung Microstella balance wheel - 28,800 vph
Chronometer Certified - COSC
70hr power reserve - weekend goodness

Deep Fluted edges to the scewdown back:

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Silicon harispring, full balance bridge

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Ceramic bearings for the rotor

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Small detail that I love - the difference and contrast in finishes between the rotor and the bridges

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Deep engraving on the movement and rotor

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Date aperture is unadorned but is stepped, a window frame in a window frame - another subtle touch from Tudor
The power reserve indicator draws many opinions but I love it - it's neither distracting nor overpowering. It fits in balance within the dial set up.

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Very wearable, comfortable, accurate and soon to be versatile watch that incorporates several subtle features that belie it's tool watch designation. The whole is more than the sum of its parts and absolutely worthy of your consideration.

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To be in England in the summertime, with my love, close to the edge

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hoppyjr
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by hoppyjr » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:00 am

Will this be a for sale post soon?


FYI, apparently the Pelagos rubber is a direct fit.

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matt.wu
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by matt.wu » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:08 am

You do a LOT of under-appreciated watches a great service with your detailed reviews, RMM. Nicely done. :cheers:
:htfu:

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rockmastermike
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by rockmastermike » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:19 am

hoppyjr wrote:Will this be a for sale post soon?
FYI, apparently the Pelagos rubber is a direct fit.
Ha! they all come up for sale eventually
And yes, that confirmation led to Art saying he would make a couple of straps for me when my turn comes up.
(no rush, Art, the bracelet really is killer)
To be in England in the summertime, with my love, close to the edge

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rockmastermike
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by rockmastermike » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:23 am

matt.wu wrote:You do a LOT of under-appreciated watches a great service with your detailed reviews, RMM. Nicely done. :cheers:
Thank you, Matt - I guess I am "the shepherd of lost sheep" every now and then :shrug:
We live in such a fast paced world and it's good to show some things that might get missed.
To be in England in the summertime, with my love, close to the edge

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hoppyjr
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by hoppyjr » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:31 am

rockmastermike wrote:
matt.wu wrote:You do a LOT of under-appreciated watches a great service with your detailed reviews, RMM. Nicely done. :cheers:
Thank you, Matt - I guess I am "the shepherd of lost sheep" every now and then :shrug:
We live in such a fast paced world and it's good to show some things that might get missed.
.....but how do you feel about BLM?


Too soon? :lol:

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marchone
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by marchone » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:38 am

Great review Mike. I never paid the North Flag much attention. Till today. Well done.
only accurate watches are interesting

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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by Panerai7 » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:39 am

Liked north flag since I tried it on but you made it a star and super tempting.
Amazing pics RMM

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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by ikkoku » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:40 am

damn, reading your post makes me want to take a closer look at the watch... thanks for the writeup. well done.

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1954Selmer
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by 1954Selmer » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:55 am

Always great reviews from RMM! I love the NF. Damn cool watch.

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mikeylacroix
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by mikeylacroix » Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:10 am

Great write up

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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by Nomadz » Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:13 am

I like those quite a bit. Unfortunately they went with the integrated bracelet, which is a deal breaker for me. No nato no sale.
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by streetracer101 » Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:46 am

Watch looks way better in your pics. Hit me up when it's time to flip.

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rockmastermike
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by rockmastermike » Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:51 am

This often gets compared to the Explorer and the Heritage Ranger....I have owned all 3:

Ranger:
Hour/minute hands are similar in shape but very different in construction
Different case altogether
Larger dial in the Ranger and it wears larger (in width)
NF is a taller but not by much and not top heavy
No date on the Ranger - not a strike against, just a difference
Applied markers on the NF
Bottom line: I could easily have both in the box without any thought of duplication - they are just too different.

Explorer:
EXP bezel is a scratch magnet
EXP case has more refined shape
EXP applied/polished numbers numbers
Better clasp
More dress/ than tool
Bottom line: I could easily have both in the box without any thought of duplication - they are just too different.

With these most differences it's not an "either/or" proposition by "why not both (or all 3)?"
Last edited by rockmastermike on Mon Sep 12, 2016 12:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
To be in England in the summertime, with my love, close to the edge

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jimyritz
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by jimyritz » Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:32 am

Nice review RMM- This watch was so much better in person.

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rockmastermike
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by rockmastermike » Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:36 am

jimyritz wrote:Nice review RMM- This watch was so much better in person.
Thanks, I read that alot from people that have seen it / tried it on....and it's true
streetracer101 wrote:Watch looks way better in your pics. Hit me up when it's time to flip.
You got it :thumbsup:
To be in England in the summertime, with my love, close to the edge

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aikiman44
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by aikiman44 » Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:41 am

Great review.
"We'd better synchronize our watches."

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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by unixshrk » Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:51 am

aikiman44 wrote:Great review.
This

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rockmastermike
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by rockmastermike » Mon Sep 12, 2016 12:45 pm

As Matt described, it is an under-appreciated watch - but one that really shines if given the chance
To be in England in the summertime, with my love, close to the edge

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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by jtbenson » Mon Sep 12, 2016 12:52 pm

thoughtful, thorough review as per usual rmm standards.
really appreciate the macro photos to accompany the deep dive into the subtle details.
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greenlightning
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by greenlightning » Mon Sep 12, 2016 4:09 pm

As always, very well written and wonderful photos

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dukerules
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by dukerules » Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:33 pm

Love the NF, and this review really does it justice :cheers:

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Joe C
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by Joe C » Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:48 pm

Awesome review Mike... I for one, really dig that watch.
pure awesomeness :
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by blowfish89 » Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:49 pm

Fabulous pictures RMM! This watch felt lightweight when I tried it on, almost too lightweight for a steel watch on a bracelet.

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rockmastermike
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Re: Tudor North Flag 91210N

Post by rockmastermike » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:29 pm

dukerules wrote:Love the NF, and this review really does it justice :cheers:
Joe C wrote:Awesome review Mike... I for one, really dig that watch.
Thanks, Rahul & Joe - Like other have mentioned, I, too was on the fence till I tried one on. The rest is history as they say.
blowfish89 wrote:Fabulous pictures RMM! This watch felt lightweight when I tried it on, almost too lightweight for a steel watch on a bracelet.
It could be worn every day comfortably, not too heavy and not too light - just right. :cheers:
To be in England in the summertime, with my love, close to the edge

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