ugh. here we go again (new hodinkee LE with IWC)

[logan2z]

I think IWC should spend more time showing how their Sellita made movements are improved (if any) and less time on explaining ceratanium, which their marketing explanation of it would make any chemist or metallurgist laugh.

IWC seems to have a history of improving, tuning and modifying off the shelf movements, but it seems to take decades for the details to sink in with their audience. Their marketing should fix that.

They were explicit about it 15 years ago when they actually did something.

I hate to sound so cynical but I have to agree - if there was something of substance to say I'm sure they would have said it. At the very least I guess they removed the date function since the SW300 has a date.

[JP Chestnut]

I think IWC should spend more time showing how their Sellita made movements are improved (if any) and less time on explaining ceratanium, which their marketing explanation of it would make any chemist or metallurgist laugh.

IWC seems to have a history of improving, tuning and modifying off the shelf movements, but it seems to take decades for the details to sink in with their audience. Their marketing should fix that.

They were explicit about it 15 years ago when they actually did something.

I hate to sound so cynical but I have to agree - if there was something of substance to say I'm sure they would have said it. At the very least I guess they removed the date function since the SW300 has a date.

Did "they" do it, or did they just pay the extra 10 cents per unit to order the dateless version? We will probably never know.

[dinexus]

But a $6400 Sellita from IWC and Hodinkee will still be great re-sell fodder

"18 watching"

[logan2z]

I think IWC should spend more time showing how their Sellita made movements are improved (if any) and less time on explaining ceratanium, which their marketing explanation of it would make any chemist or metallurgist laugh.

IWC seems to have a history of improving, tuning and modifying off the shelf movements, but it seems to take decades for the details to sink in with their audience. Their marketing should fix that.

They were explicit about it 15 years ago when they actually did something.

I hate to sound so cynical but I have to agree - if there was something of substance to say I'm sure they would have said it. At the very least I guess they removed the date function since the SW300 has a date.

Did "they" do it, or did they just pay the extra 10 cents per unit to order the dateless version? We will probably never know.

Not sure that there is a no-date version of that movement but it's possible. In any case Stowa does it in their $1K no-date pilot so it's not a major horological achievement.

[dinexus]

I think IWC should spend more time showing how their Sellita made movements are improved (if any) and less time on explaining ceratanium, which their marketing explanation of it would make any chemist or metallurgist laugh.

IWC seems to have a history of improving, tuning and modifying off the shelf movements, but it seems to take decades for the details to sink in with their audience. Their marketing should fix that.

If they did, in fact, modify/improve the movement then it would be good for them to share the details. That might quell some of the concern over the use of an off-the-shelf SW300-1 in the Hodinkee watch.

I pointed this out earlier in the thread, but according to IWC (not Hodinkee, who didn't mention this anywhere), the 32000-series movements like the one used in this LE have a silicon escape wheel and pallet lever, they're bi-directionally wound, and have a 72-hour power reserve. Certainly better than a basic SW300, but wonder why 'Dink didn't bother to mention this.

[logan2z]

I think IWC should spend more time showing how their Sellita made movements are improved (if any) and less time on explaining ceratanium, which their marketing explanation of it would make any chemist or metallurgist laugh.

IWC seems to have a history of improving, tuning and modifying off the shelf movements, but it seems to take decades for the details to sink in with their audience. Their marketing should fix that.

If they did, in fact, modify/improve the movement then it would be good for them to share the details. That might quell some of the concern over the use of an off-the-shelf SW300-1 in the Hodinkee watch.

I pointed this out earlier in the thread, but according to IWC (not Hodinkee, who didn't mention this anywhere), the 32000-series movements like the one used in this LE have a silicon escape wheel and pallet lever, they're bi-directionally wound, and have a 72-hour power reserve. Certainly better than a basic SW300, but wonder why 'Dink didn't bother to mention this.

One of us has his wires crossed, and it very well may be me You keep mentioning that the Hodinkee watch uses a 32000 series movement (which is in-house) yet Hodinkee and every watch blog that covered the release of the watch says it's a 35100 movement, which is an SW300. The Hodinkee watch is spec'd at having a 42 hour power reserve. What makes you believe it's a 32000 series movement?

[jtbenson]

and, so it begins...sigh

[logan2z]

and, so it begins...sigh

BTW, I don't believe that the Hodinkee shop had been allocated all 500 pieces. I saw someone say that their local boutique was getting some pieces in. So I'm not sure that the 'join the waitlist' message at the Hodinkee shop necessarily means that the watch can't still be purchased elsewhere.

[JP Chestnut]

So much of the watch market is distorted by people buying to sell to others. It's the worst part of this hobby. I doubt there are much more than 500 people worldwide who would like this watch enough to spend $6,400 on it. It's all FOMO demand and profiteering.

[logan2z]

So, according to Hodinkee's comment in their Instagram feed:

The IWC caliber 35100 is based on a Sellita caliber. The base caliber is the highest grade version of the movement, and is received by IWC as a kit, not an assembled movement. It’s assembled, and tested in-house by IWC to verify such elements of its performance as power reserve, and is also adjust to positions and temperature. As completed by IWC, the movement offers considerably better performance than any stock, pre-assembled Sellita movement.

No information about what it is that makes the Hodinkee version perform 'considerably better' than a stock Sellita. More accurate? Better power reserve? No idea. It would be interesting to see an independent test of the two movements to verify this claim.

Edit: They also verified that the watch is available at select IWC boutiques globally.

[JP Chestnut]

So, according to Hodinkee's comment in their Instagram feed:

The IWC caliber 35100 is based on a Sellita caliber. The base caliber is the highest grade version of the movement, and is received by IWC as a kit, not an assembled movement. It’s assembled, and tested in-house by IWC to verify such elements of its performance as power reserve, and is also adjust to positions and temperature. As completed by IWC, the movement offers considerably better performance than any stock, pre-assembled Sellita movement.

No information about what it is that makes the Hodinkee version perform 'considerably better' than a stock Sellita. More accurate? Better power reserve? No idea. It would be interesting to see an independent test of the two movements to verify this claim.

I read that as "we build it up nicely and adjust it very carefully". I expect that it keeps better time than a Sellita built movement. Are they using hand wound springs like the used to on the older ETA movements? I assume they would say so if they were - they definitely used to talk about it.

IWC as a brand isn't shy about tooting their own horn. I don't think there's any secret sauce there.

[logan2z]

So, according to Hodinkee's comment in their Instagram feed:

The IWC caliber 35100 is based on a Sellita caliber. The base caliber is the highest grade version of the movement, and is received by IWC as a kit, not an assembled movement. It’s assembled, and tested in-house by IWC to verify such elements of its performance as power reserve, and is also adjust to positions and temperature. As completed by IWC, the movement offers considerably better performance than any stock, pre-assembled Sellita movement.

No information about what it is that makes the Hodinkee version perform 'considerably better' than a stock Sellita. More accurate? Better power reserve? No idea. It would be interesting to see an independent test of the two movements to verify this claim.

I expect that it keeps better time than a Sellita built movement.

Maybe. So it's +3 instead of +6? Not sure that anyone really cares. I suspect that many people would have been much happier with an in-house movement that was +6 spd instead of a tweaked SW300 that was +3 spd. There's just more perceived value with an in-house movement and it's much easier to justify a $6K price tag. Anyway, subject beaten to death. The watch will be a hit no matter what's beating away inside.

[Knome]

I don't see anything wrong with the lume , except for the fact some ppl don't like lume in that color... which is fine.

I think the watch looks great and is what it needed to be for a basic pilots watch. The price aint great, but IWC offers plenty of cheaper options and will no doubt offer more to come. I might pick one up from a friend to try out prob wont keep it though.

Looking forward to being a scalper for once.

[tmw]

Ugh. Now I am starting to like it again.

Fucking watches.

[Panerai7]

and, so it begins...sigh

Wow plus the faux patina does look like shit imho (pic from the link)

It looks horrible. I've seen that fake patina lume in person and it's worse than left hand drive yellow teeth Pelagos.
Same reason I couldn't get passed it on the 3706 reissue

[Knome]

Another tidbit I got from an IWC contact is that, goinfg forward, ceratanium case production will be scaled back and fewer and fewer references will offer it because it is a pain to work with and costs too much. Personally I don't think enough of the market sees the value enough to make it a more mainstream case material. It's good for a few halo pieces and special editions here and there.
So for everyone who wishes for a steel version of this watch, who knows, eventually I bet they will get around to making a similar steel version.

[logan2z]

ceratanium case production will be scaled back and fewer and fewer references will offer it because it is a pain to work with and costs too much.

Isn't that the same reason they stopped making ceramic cases for many years after the 3705?

I agree with you, I don't think enough people see the value in that case material to make the effort/investment worthwhile. If they do a steel version with an in-house movement or an ETA/Sellita movement with a sensible price then I'd probably be a buyer.

[jtbenson]

ceramic/titanium: pick one
they're both great materials with their own great properties, and I don't understand the idea that a hybrid is any better than one or the other.
caveat: i went to great lengths to nab one of the ceratanium bathyscaphes before they went out of production.

[logan2z]

ceramic/titanium: pick one
they're both great materials with their own great properties, and I don't understand the idea that a hybrid is any better than one or the other.
caveat:

JLC did something similar with its Cermet case material. It was some combination of ceramic and Aluminum. I think they only ever used it on one watch (a 44mm version of the Deep Sea Chronograph) and it seemed to get little attention.

[james80]

There’s some gold in the IG post, the HODINKEE crew seems to get their panties in a bunch quite easily.

[toxicavenger]

i am jelly. these mofo's could put a penny racer inside this watch and still get top dollar for it

[Panerai7]

Oh and that thing is 39mm. Even the 40 wore small. Great watch, 2 thumbs up

[BBK357]

Yes IWC is doing wonderful things with this $12 movement. My contact flew me to the sellita movement assembly line at IWC headquarters and I snapped a quick pic:

[JP Chestnut]

I’m glad to see some people who don’t eat whatever shit these brands feed them and then ask for more.

I can’t wait until all these dumb asses move on to some other hobby.

[dinexus]

One of us has his wires crossed, and it very well may be me You keep mentioning that the Hodinkee watch uses a 32000 series movement (which is in-house) yet Hodinkee and every watch blog that covered the release of the watch says it's a 35100 movement, which is an SW300. The Hodinkee watch is spec'd at having a 42 hour power reserve. What makes you believe it's a 32000 series movement?

Nope, it's 100% my error. I thought the 32000 and the 35000 movements were in the same family – they're clearly not, despite the odd numbering convention.

Now I'm genuinely shocked this didn't get the new movement.